This is a video that Ryan Denning is working on. I have some clips in the beginning from the epic winter I spent in New Hampshire. It’s crazy how much I actually can’t wait to go back to the icy waters. I may have to do a tactical strike during hurricane season while the water is still not too bad…..
Alright everybody. I have a one-year paid subscription to transworld surf magazine to giveaway. What I don’t have is a good idea for how to give it away. Leave a comment with your best idea for a contest to win this thing. Your comment won’t appear right away as I have to approve them but I will see them all. Put on your thinking caps and let’s have fun with this.
So here is the footage of that kid taking me out the other day. Will Phillips was on top of the action. I’m going to try and get the actual footage and slow down the wipe out part. However, I do really love how excited Will was that the kid took me out instead of me getting to surf the wave lol. Gracias Will!
I headed up to the Rusty factory to(unfortunately) return that 5’7″ BS single fin today. However, I did get to order some boards! First I ordered a 5’6″ dozer. I’m working with Pedro Battaglin on this board. We have made two of these now and this will be the third one. On this board I’m going to decrease the tail block width a little bit and change the bottom contour from a deep single throughout to a slight single with V in the tail. I think these little adjustments will make this board mental. Next I wanted a replica of my 5’6″ “team” hustler with the squash tail. So on this one I simply gave Hamon my old board number and said please. Last I ordered one of the newer models in the lineup, a Misfit. I’m still wondering what the hell I ordered on this one lol. I was lucky enough to see World Tour Surfer and old amigo Nate Yeomans there today and he was bringing one back that he said was too thin in the tail. Also there was another Rusty shredder Nick Grenier who said he has one also and the tail is too thin. So….I obviously told Hamon that I’d like one with a thicker tail. Then came the……”uh, well you see…if we do that it will really change that bottom rocker line”. Now here’s one thing I’ve learned. Mr. Rick Hamon knows what the hell he’s talking about, and when he has pause for concern over design like this…….LET HIM DO WHAT WILL WORK, not what you want!! So seeing as he knew the issue I left it simply at make me a 5’9″ misftit 2.25-2.35″ thick. So that is definitely going to be the most interesting one to see how it comes out as well as rides. So after flapping with everybody for much too long I headed back home. I checked the waves and it sucked but it was so hot and muggy I surfed scripps for an hour in trunks anyway. Because I remember all those days in New Hampshire that I would have given anything for a day like today. Here’s some random pics from throughout the day. I forgot to TMZ Nate and Rusty for you guys, so sorry but no paparazzi shots of them.
As I walked home from scripps with Garrett the sunset was amazing. I ran inside and took these pics from the driveway looking back at shores and scripps right before it all disappeared. The waves were pretty small and crap tonight. But the good thing was there were plenty of people! Stay tuned for an epic highlight from tonights session.
(click to enlarge)
After I got off work I had a couple beverages and enjoyed the fireworks from the rhia ranch in La Jolla. Also the streak of waves we’ve been having continued today. Happy 4th!
Between sessions yesterday I filmed some of the young hot doggers down at shores. Here they are trying to go around, over and weave through the intense mid day “clusterfuck”(I really think that is a good way to describe it) at shores.
Alright. So I haven’t been able to film on that single fin yet. However, fortunate for you guys the whole rusty A-team has! And since they shred way harder than me, this will be way more fun for you to watch. Check it out:
We’ve been on a pretty good run of waves here in SoCal. Here’s a few pics I snapped over the weekend.
There’s some waist to chest high waves and the sun is out but the wind is pretty strong. I have to work until 6 so hopefully it cleans up a little this evening.
WhatTheSchnell 