Saturday morning I hit the road with Joel hoping that the predicted one day drop in swell wouldn’t be too significant. Since the storm had been stationary for so long it caused upwelling which caused the storm to lose energy before moving into warmer water again and re-intensifying. It was the smallest day for sure but was still super fun. Lucky for me Matt Berkowitz just hooked me up with these photos of our trip. Thanks for shooting bud!
I’m tired
It’s been so good and I’ve been surfing so much that I haven’t had time to edit and post stuff, so apologies. Here is some of what’s been going on. Yesterday I headed up north with Ty and we had two super fun sessions. Today I rolled up with the other half of the brotherhood Ryan and we scored two more amazing sessions, one of which we bumped into the infamous Natty Graham and did some water displacing and board jumping. Everyone in the water was stoked and having a blast!…
Except for the one donkey realtor who was the only person wasting his breath mumbling about crowds. You should have zipped it and focused more on taking the extra paddle so that you wouldn’t have blown the drop on the perfect right I gave you. And when you got in my way today paddling out for your 30 minute session you didn’t here me complain at all did you? You may want to follow the lead of Ashley, ANY of the guys from liquid dreams, the old dude on the longboard and especially the Chiller that was shredding his inflatable SUP(no joke, the dude was shredding this thing), and BE COOL! Like I said to you today, if four people paddling out on a 1000 yard long stretch of beach affects your surfing and is a “buzz kill”, it’s probably an issue with your talent level and mindset.
So next time don’t worry about my 20 yards of “trespassing” as much as the fact that not only could I be labeling “your spot” all over the Internet, I could EASILY load that “bus of thirty”, or hell, even thousands of people that are reading this blog just like you and bring them right on down, factory direct. I would also assume that since you were towel changing at your truck in the driveway of that house, that you clearly don’t own it and were trespassing as well?….
See you tomorrow buddy. Be cool and i won’t come back in a bus! And don’t worry, I’ll use the beach access that’s “RIGHT F$#CK!N THERE!”
Now back to the regularly scheduled stoke spreading! Enjoy these photos of the last couple days. I hope everyone has been scoring! And if you haven’t, don’t worry, we may be in need of some people to fill a bus….I’LL DRIVE!!!
It’s all about ME
Tis’ the season!
Backseat POV
Come take a ride with me using my Z-Gear vest.
5’9″
So I’ve had a magic 5’8″ that Pedro Battaglin made me a little bit ago and I’ve really wanted the same board but with a round tail for when it’s a bit better conditions. And this is it…the 5’9″ x18.38″x2.38″ round tail. I put some alien writing and bright colors so that I’ll be an Identified Flying Object when I’m using it. It worked great this last swell and I’m thinking of taking it back east if Leslie stays strong.
Wave of the Summer
My buddy Oscar Moncada just dipped by San Diego and we had a beach day with our ladies and small wave sleds. If you haven’t seen any of Oscars “wave of the summer” entries check them out on Surfline! This day was the opposite of heavy however, neither of us picked any off anything over waist high and my roommate Sheri from Chicago was dominating on her first time ever surfing.
Hydroflex
WOW!!!
A Cold Day in Schnell
I’m super pumped that Surfline used an edit of my winter in New England. If you haven’t seen it yet here is the link:
http://www.surfline.com/video/webisodes/a-cold-day-in-schnell_75084
Thanks for all your guys support and Enjoy!


















































